Designed as an additional layer of protection between the house and the garage, an intact **firewall** resists the intrusion of fire into the home. Fire codes require that the firewall must stop the fire from spreading beyond the garage for one hour, providing adequate time for smoke alarms to alert the family members and neighbors of the threat. After the firewall has been compromised, then you need fire-rated drywall, drywall compound and firewall caulking to make the repairs.
Fire-Rated Drywall
The drywall must extend over the entire wall between the house and the garage, covering every inch of space in the floor to the ceiling or roof. If there’s a hole in the wall, **1/2-inch fire-rated** drywall is needed to repair the space. If the garage has a ceiling, it must consist of **5/8-inch fire-rated** drywall. Both types of drywall require sealing with drywall tape and drywall compound between the panels. Any holes or gaps in the drywall must be filled using **firewall caulk**.
Problem Spots
1 problem in providing a solid firewall is a pull-down or retractable **ladder** to a loft in the garage. When there are fire-rated units, most homeowners put in a less-expensive wood ladder. But if the wall between the attic and house is also covered with 1/2-inch fire-rated drywall and sealed, then the firewall is secure. Any incursion during the firewall — lights, pipes or wires — must be sealed using fire-rated firewall or masonry caulk.
An Entry Door
Finally, the entrance **door** between the house and the garage must be of solid-core construction and **fire-rated to get 20 minutes**. Weatherstripping prevents smoke and gases from entering the home from under the door. Additionally, in many jurisdictions, such as California, the door must be self-closing. A gas piston similar to those found on display doors pulls the door shut automatically. A spring-loaded hinge also closes the door firmly so that the latch can capture and hold the door shut.