How to Expose Brick at a Brick Row House

An exposed interior brick wall is an often-seen design component, showing up in several urban row house renovations. So hot is the characteristic that many homeowners set a brick exposure endeavor in their to-do record of house makeovers. The actual work of exposing brick is not complicated, though it is dirty and often backbreaking. Preparation and cleanup can also be important pieces of doing a good job, as is assessment of the brick before beginning.

Structural Brickwork

Masonry row houses were typically constructed of 2 layers of interlocking brick, making an 8- or 9-inch thick wall. The outside face was generally made from strong, high-fired brick which was attractive and withstood the rigors of their climate. The inside layer, though, was common brick, which is lower-fired brick which was softer and could not endure exposure to rain, cold, ice or wind. Party walls between row houses were generally made entirely from common brick with plaster applied directly over them. These are normally the brick walls do-it-yourselfers want to uncover.

Avoiding Disappointments

Because common brick was never meant to be seen or exposed to weather, it was often fired at lower temperatures, meaning their clay and sand components aren’t firmly fused. This softness allows sand and grit to discard out of the brick, necessitating frequent cleanups of flooring and other surfaces. Common brick was not always laid in neat rows of runners and headers; random brick arrangement, missing brick and mortar unsightly patches are common. Find a test place in an inconspicuous place to make sure the brick would be to your liking. Consider, also, that with no dense layer of cement, you’re more likely to hear noises out of your neighbor’s home.

A Clean and Safe Worksite

Remove furniture and cover the Landscaping design Miami completely with a plastic tarp. Seal door openings with tape and plastic to keep adjoining spaces clean. Ample windows and prepare trash bins to receive debris. A respirator, eye protection, gloves, and long sleeves and pants help avoid injury and respiratory exposure. At times, plaster comes off walls in large sections, therefore a hardhat is a good idea too. Some plasterers, particularly in the mid-20th century, used asbestos for a binder. If you suspect that is true, consult a certified asbestos professional before beginning.

Digging In

Your chief tools are a masonry chisel and a mallet to chip in and scrape the cement off. A vintage woodworking chisel along with a stiff wire brush eliminate the rest. You can leave obstinate mortar for Victorian character. To eliminate it, use a Sod in Salt Lake City Care near me Phoenix sprayer to apply muriatic acid, then rinse it with a stiff brush and rinse with clean water. Muriatic acid is highly corrosive and severely irritating to eyes, lungs and exposed skin, so wear goggles and a respirator to protect your eyes and respiratory system. Start the job at the top and work your way down. To get a tidy removal, score the seams of the plaster wall at the very top and sides to avoid damage to the ceiling and side walls.

Completing the work

Whether there are any conspicuous or unsightly gaps in the mortar, then fill them with a soft, sandy mortar mixture. Filling the holes also reduces air and noise infiltration, as well as insect entry. You may need to patch the edges of the ceiling and side walls to close gaps between the brick. Use a lawn (Salt Lake City, UT) sprayer to apply several coats of sealer, like a matte, water-based polyurethane, which will seal the brick and cut back the amount of grit which falls into the Landscaping design Fresno. Powerful, also, is a coat of paint, which also masks inconsistencies.